Pasta Salsa All'Amatriciana - A Roman Favorite

Pasta salsa all'amatriciana (also known as sugo) is a traditional Italian pasta sauce based on guanciale (cured pork cheek), pecorino cheese and tomato. Originating from the town of Amatrice (in the mountainous Province of Rieti of Lazio region) where pecorino cheese originates, the Amatriciana is one of the best known pasta sauces in Roman cuisine. The Italian government has named it a traditional agro-alimentary product of Lazio.


The original recipe I used was from Christopher Kimball's Milk Street, which I've modified to make with a full pound of pasta. Chris described the pasta this way "Less is more in this simple Roman pasta with a red sauce that’s bright, bold and... barely there." I would call it highly flavorful even though you don't see much sauce. For my husband who tries to avoid highly acidic classic red pasta sauce, this is a winner.


Even using the full amount of red and black pepper described below, it is not overly spicy. But if you prefer a more mild dish, use only the lower amounts.

Ingredients (Serves 6)
Tablespoons Extra-Virgin Olive Oil, divided
1/4 to 1/3 pound thinly sliced pancetta, finely chopped
15 medium garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1-2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 cup dry white wine
1 15-ounce can tomatoes
 (whole peeled or crushed)
2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons salt (for the pasta water)
1-2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
1 pound spaghetti

Instructions
Prepare all of the above ingredients. For the tomatoes, if using whole canned tomatoes, crush them with your hands into small pieces. Strain the tomatoes through a sieve to separate the juice from the solids. Reserve 3 tablespoons of the juice. Discard or save the remaining tomato juice for another recipe.

In a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until well-browned and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel–lined plate and set aside.

Reduce heat to medium and add the garlic; cook, stirring, until light golden brown, about 2
minutes. Stir in the pepper flakes and cook 30 seconds. Add the wine, increase to
medium-high and cook, stirring, until all but 2-3 tablespoons of the liquid has evaporated. Add the
drained tomatoes and cook, stirring, until heated, about 2 minutes. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the reserved tomato juice, then remove from the heat.

In a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water and the pecorino chese (still in a chunk) to a boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the cheese from sticking to the pot. Stir in the pasta and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring often, until the pasta is just shy of al dente. Remove and discard the remaining pecorino, then drain the pasta in a colander set in a large heat-safe bowl; reserve the cooking water.

Set the skillet over medium-high, stir in 2 cups of the reserved pasta water and bring to a simmer.
Add the drained pasta, tossing with tongs. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, 3 to 6 minutes. If it becomes too dry, add a bit more of the reserved cooking water until loosened. Off heat, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, most of the pancetta and the black pepper. Transfer to a serving plate/bowl(s) and serve with grated pecorino and the remaining crisp pancetta.


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